Space in Delhi
Delhi is a massive, busy crowded city. Life tumbles out onto
the streets surrounding the slums, traffic tips out of lanes into oncoming
traffic and onto footpaths anywhere it can. Moving through a market means
combining skills honed in video games with maze-running to generate a pattern
of movement often more lateral and medial than centrifugal. Everything crowds
in for space – walls, doors, cables, gutters, goods and services, temples, even
the sky pushes its way in from time to time.
The Old City, Delhi |
And yet, Delhi is also home to a surprising number of open,
near vacant spaces. Large parts of the diplomatic enclave, for example, are
fields of grass lining wide avenues dividing the various representative
compounds. And while people lounge on the grass, occasionally organise games,
their presence remains relatively sparse.
Public parks, even at peak times on the weekends, are not
that much busier than parks in Australian metropoles might be.
And the population of the outside areas around New Delhi’s
parliamentary district is kept strictly under control by policemen armed with
big sticks – though numbers can surge at this popular spot for public protest,
at times reaching into the hundreds of thousands.
Delhi is host to a number of ‘old cities’, seven, or nine,
even more, depending on who you are talking to or how you define them. Delhi
has been a major population centre for well over a thousand years. At different
times, its different rulers have built at different sites their own different
‘cities’ – generally walled areas containing places of worship, meeting places,
gardens, and residences for the mighty.
While some of these sites are popular and well maintained
(like the Qutb Minar site, overrun by visiting school groups by 11 on most
days), others are largely overlooked.
The Feroz Shah Kotla Fort, for example, despite being part
of India’s archaeological survey, is largely forgotten, with the five rupee
(ten cent) entry fee serving to do little more than keep the homeless out.
Feroz Shah, described in the history books as a kind and
bloodthirsty man, built the fort for his city Ferozabad, on the banks of the
Yamuna river (the great ruler didn’t get to name the river after himself).
Ultimately, it fell into disuse, and pretty much everyone moved away. Even the
river moved away – today its course runs almost a kilometre away from the side of
the city it once bordered (though you can still smell it).
Today, the walls of the old city serve to keep the incessant
city noise out – climb to the top of the building from which Ashok’s pillar
rises, for example, and you can hear (and barely see) the city and its traffic
again – the concrete foundations of a bridge over the Yamuna climb away from
the site, and highways now run where the ancient river coursed. Climb down
again, and the noise recedes.
Inside, the lawns, the ruins, rest in stillness with only a
subdued city hum in the aural distance. It’s worth a look, if you’re hanging
around Delhi looking for something to do. Finding it though, can be fraught –
the nearby stadium of the same name (how pleased he’d be though, that a sports
stadium was named after him, a thousand years later) is almost invariably I’m
told where drivers will take you if you ask to go to Ferozobad – so bring your
own map.
Inside, amongst the ruins, you’ll find the aforementioned
Ashok’s pillar – there are a few of these spread around India. Ashok, the
greatest ruler of India’s ‘Golden Age’, living approx. 300BC, became, after a
particularly bloody battle in which his acolytes allege his armies slew no
fffewer than a 100,000 (conveniently, in Hindi, the number for a hundred
thousand is a lakh) of his enemies,
anyway, he became a pacifist of all things, and in pursuing his newfound love
of peace, erected pillars around the empire that codified his moral compass,
for all to interpret.
Feroza Shah seems to have been fascinated by them – 1500
years later, he re-located at least two of them to Delhi. The one at Ferozabad,
one of the better ones.
You’ll find a stepwell. India’s famous stepwells are, well,
wells, but ones that you can walk down to. As the water table sinks (and in
different places, it sinks to different levels, in some places I’ve seen
varying by as much as 70m over the course of a year, as the level of monsoon
waters in the groundwater table ebbs and flows. Most stepwells are rectangular,
with rooms carved into the walls at each floor on the way down. At Neemrana,
not far from the desert, we walked 100m down one.
Ferozabad’s stepwell is near unique – it’s a circular one.
It was closed when I visited (with a very nice group of women who congregate each
Wednesday at a different Delhi historical site and take turns to lead each
other on a tour – the photo of the old mosque at the fort, below, was taken by one of them, credit due)
because last year, some tormented young man had ended his life by throwing
himself in – clearly the water table had fallen almost as far as he did. Had he
thrown himself off a bridge, would they have closed that? Anyway.
And there’s the old mosque, Feroz Shah’s old mosque, the
mosque next to his house. It’s still a functioning mosque, but Thursday is the
big day, not Friday. Friday or any other day, you’ll be unlikely to find more
than one or two folk hanging around, and they’re a bit curious, those folk.
Despite its original purpose, and current status, as a
mosque, over the centuries, the site has been credited with magical powers, and
‘djinns’ – or genies as in ‘I dream of’ genies – who probably arrived from the
Middle East the same time as Islam, are said to inhabit the many small rooms
underneath the mosque, originally intended to provide temporary accommodation
for traders visiting Ferozabad.
And locals (‘dilliwallahs’) will take their hopes and wishes
there, sometimes in their minds, sometimes written on a piece of paper, and
affix them to a wall in some room or egress under the mosque, in a plea for
supernatural support in the pursuit of their ambition. At the same time, making
a small offering, flowers or incense.
I didn’t see any djinns down there, just a few small bats,
and a couple of laid back security guards.
Because of its largely uninhabited, open, and relatively
pleasant surrounds, the most important social purpose served by Ferozabad today
is as a place for young couples to slip away, and do whatever it is that young
couples do.
Disappearing into the smog - there's a massive city in that grey haze, you just can't see it. For more on Delhi's smog, try Stephanie March's story from last week.
This morning, for the first time since we arrived, the smog had thinned, as it does at the end of winter.
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